Honeymoon Diary #2

Wednesday 22nd July

4.30am was my waking up time. When we decided it was a reasonable time for breakfast we decided to try Duke's Canoe Club for the buffet. It was fantastic - no soggy buffet here, everything was nice and fresh and the crispy bacon was to die for. Our plan was to visit Pearl Harbour today. We eventually found a bus stop and when the bus eventually turned up found we needed change for our tickets. Luckily he said there was another bus following ("and you'll get a seat on that one") so we grabbed some water to change down a big note and climbed aboard the next bus. The journey was about an hour long. When we got to the site, the first thing I had to do was check-in my bag for security reasons (should I sue them for getting sunburnt because they took my suncream away?). We queued for our allotted time to visit the USS Arizona Memorial site (which is free) and then bought tickets for the USS Bowfin and USS Missouri.

We had three hours before we could visit the Arizona so we took the shuttle to the Missouri first. We chose a guided tour which was excellent. Our guide served in the American Air Force and added a real personal air to the majesty of the huge ship. The USS Missouri was the last battleship in active service and could still be turned around for duty within 3 months if needed. There were lots of big statistics. I think the one that impressed me the most was the accuracy of her weapons - the 16" shells have a range of 23 miles and are still accurate to within about 6 foot. It's technology pre-dates modern computers. Indeed when the ship was refitted in the 1980's they tried installing digital computers but took them out again as they weren't as accurate or as reliable as the analogue computers (you really don't want to be facing the "blue screen of death" in a war!)

He showed us the place where a Japanese kamikaze plane hit the ship during World War II. Miraculously the only person killed was the Japanese pilot. Despite the bitterness between the two nations, despite the fact that this man had tried to destroy the ship and despite the fact that the captain's brother had been killed in battle two months earlier, the captain insisted on giving the pilot a proper burial at sea and set his men to work at sewing a Japanese flag to cover his coffin.

The final stop on our tour was the spot where WWII ended, where the Japanese signed their surrender. After the tour ended we were free to look around the open areas of the ship, especially the living quarters and communal areas which was really interesting. There was a real sense of the camaraderie that must exist when you live in such situations and the respect shown for all those who have served on both this ship and throughout the armed forces is contagious.

We took the shuttle bus back to the main site in time for our 2.30pm visit to the memorial. First we were shown a video of that fateful day in 1941 where the harbour, along with various other aircraft bases on the island were the target of the attack that brought the US into World War II. Many ships were sunk that day but the Arizona is one of the few that remains in the harbour and also where the highest loss of life occurred, 1177 died as they slept that night. After the film we were shown to a boat to take us to the memorial site. A white arch covers the site where the Arizona lies and parts of the boat still show above the water line and oil seeps from it's hull. It's strange to imagine that you are standing over a burial site. We spent a few moments looking at the names and took the next ferry back 15 minutes later.

Our last point of call for the day was the USS Bowfin, a submarine that you can walk around with a free audio tour (well I don't think you could get many tour groups down there!) As it was getting late it was nice and quiet, but it still felt claustrophobic as you walked through. The audio tour included input from men who had served on the Bowfin which made it a very interesting insight into life in such a confined space.

We had a quick look around the huge missiles that were on show before we took the bus back to our hotel. Our choice of restaurant for the evening was Ciao Mein, an intriguing mix of Chinese and Italian food. There were only a few dishes which mixed the two cuisines and we tried the Salmon alla Siciliana in a hot bean sauce as well as the more Italian scallops in a creamy sauce with pasta. Again we struggled to keep awake after our meal and went straight to bed!

Thursday 23rd July

Today we were taking our first tour - the Lost tour. We really wanted to do the full 9-10 hour tour but we found we should of booked it before we left and had to be content with the half-day one instead. We were joined in our Hummer by two young Canadians and our driver (whose name escapes me!). As we made our way out of town and into the forest it started to rain. Unfortunately it meant that there was no point in getting out at the Pali Lookout as we would have got drenched and not seen a thing! On our way to the next stop we caught a few glimpses from a few other Lost scenes - the fuselage of the plane covered in blue tarpaulin behind a fence, there was the tree that Eko got thrown against, the bamboo where Jack landed in the first episode and the banyan tree that Kate hid in.

The rain cleared before our next proper stop and we saw some real pieces of Lost history - the pier where the submarine was stationed and the school that Sayid was helping to build after he returned from the island (which still has all the artwork painted on from filming). We then went off-road into Kuhio Ranch and saw the old war bunker that was used as the outside of the Tempest station, the frame that held the atomic bomb "Jughead" (it's still there, maybe they plan to re-use it...) and visited Hurley's golf course. Also around this area were the log that Sam Neill hid behind in Jurassic Park to escape the T-Rex and Godzilla's footprints. Our driver had snapshots and video clips so we could put everything into perspective and took some great photos of us in poses from the series and the films. Apart from stepping in the footsteps of the stars it is breath-taking scenery in it's own right and it was a great opportunity to get out of the city and see it.

On our way back we saw where Locke fell out of the window and broke his back, the Hawaiian Convention Center which has posed as Sydney Airport and the church that was used as the Lampost station and we were back at the hotel. After a snack in Duke's we decided to tackle Diamond Head.

Diamond Head is a massive crater that overlooks Waikiki. It was a very hot and exhausting hike up to the top in the afternoon sun which took about an hour. I was glad I brought my hiking boots - it's not overly rough but it's no pavement either and I don't know how people manage it in flip-flops! The view from the top is stunning. We drank it in and recovered our energy before heading back down (much easier!) At the bottom we rewarded ourselves with a Shave Ice - an Hawaiian speciality that's a bit like a compacted Slush Puppy that you eat with a spoon and a straw.

After we got the bus back to the hotel we both took much needed showers and went to Chuck's Steak House in the hotel for dinner. We both opted for a surf and turf, mine with breadcrumbed prawns and a jacket potato and Darren's with scallops in a garlic and cream sauce and fries. The steak was cooked to absolute perfection - a classic American meal to finish a day of classic American sights.

Honeymoon Diary #1

Monday 20th July

I couldn’t sleep. I’d been awake since 4am. I’d been running our fantastic wedding through my head and was starting to dwell on the little niggly bits that weren’t quite so perfect so I picked up a magazine. Eventually the 6am alarm went and we could get up and get on with things. Breakfast in our Paddington hotel was good and we made it on to Heathrow without any drama. After a little bit of shopping (8-hour cream for her, stupidly expensive sunglasses for him). We walked to our gate. We sat and waited and then the announcement came: “We are looking for three people who are prepared to divert to Los Angeles in return for an upgrade to Business Class.” It took no more than a nod from me and Darren was already at the service desk. As long as there was a connection to Honolulu, we would take it. After 15 nervy minutes all the paperwork was sorted and we were being led to the gate for the L.A. flight.

Business Class was an emotional experience! The first thing we were offered was champagne (it would be rude not to). The seats adjusted to almost flat and we were also furnished with blankets, pillows and toiletries. And the food! Tablecloths, real cutlery, china plates. Starter was asparagus and salad, scarily similar to our wedding starter. Main course was a filet mignon that you couldn’t complain about if you’d had it in a top restaurant. Desert was a passion fruit mousse cake that tasted exactly like a Solero! And the wine simply kept coming. After dinner we were left to rest, watch movies on our personal screens and we both tried to get as much sleep as possible. An hour before landing was afternoon tea - a selection of sandwiches followed by scone, jam and clotted cream. Travelling back in Economy is going to be VERY hard after that experience!!!

Indeed flying on to Honolulu in economy wasn’t easy! Our luggage made it as well despite the detour and we actually landed an hour earlier than we were originally scheduled to at 7.20pm. We got a taxi to our hotel, the Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach and checked in. We were offered a room upgrade for $200 a night but that was far to much – I think we’d rather save our money for a flight upgrade! We didn’t need to anyway – our Ocean View room is as close to the beach as possible and on the 10th floor so we have a pretty amazing view already.

After a little unpacking, a freshen up and change out of the clothes we had been wearing for the last 24 hours we went to Duke’s Bar in the hotel for a bite to eat. I had to return to my room for ID – they don’t serve anyone who looks under 30 here (so at 31 I guess I should feel flattered!). On the recommendation of Scott, our wedding photographer, Darren had the Mahi Mahi burger, a fish burger that he said was superb, and I went for the mango BBQ and bacon cheeseburger which was also excellent. When we returned to or room we found the hotel had left us a celebratory bottle of Champagne. After one glass we allowed ourselves to go to bed at 10pm, 36 hours after our day had started!


Tuesday 21st July

Darren was up and out on the balcony at 5.30am hoping to see a sunrise, but despite our window being almost east-facing there are far too many other tall buildings to see anything.. Still it was nice to enjoy another glass of champagne on the balcony while it got progressively lighter and Darren opened his birthday cards. At about 7am we chose the Hula Grilll for breakfast. Two courses no less! To start I had some amazing fresh pineapple and Darren had a very warm nutty muffin. Then Darren had and omelette and I had chocolate chip pancakes. Darren’s omelette with fried potatoes was impressive enough. However my pancakes – well I expected a few of those little discs you get at home. The Americans really don’t do food by halves – they were the size of dinner plates, three of them, covered in melting choc chips and foamed milk. Suffice to say I couldn’t finish it!!!

Our plan for the day was to do some investigation. After finishing our unpacking we took a stroll all the way along Waikiki beach. We made it just past the Natatorium and decided to head back along the main strip, Kalakaua Avenue. Firstly we stopped in the park and enjoyed the breeze as we admired the Diamond Head, a huge mass of volcanic rock that we plan to climb at some point! On the way back to the hotel we grabbed some leaflets for trips, then at the hotel started to make plans. We’re not really a “laze on the beach” couple. Besides, there’s far too much to do and see and who knows if we’ll ever make it back here!

We booked two trips over the phone from our room and also reserved our table for Darren’s birthday meal at Sansei, a highly recommended Japanese restaurant in the Marriott hotel. Then it was time to hit the beach. Well we had to do it at some point! It was very crowded – it’s not very big and is very popular – but we found a small spot right in front of our hotel (our’s is one of the few that actually sits on the beach). After smearing on sun cream (and sand!) I lay for a few minutes reading and then decided to cool off in the water. It’s not Jacuzzi hot but it was perfect for cooling down. And the current, even in these relatively safe waters is surprisingly strong – you have to keep aware of where you are. It was nice to dry off in the sun and it was Darren’s turn for a dip.

After another hour’s sun-worshipping we returned to the room to shower and change for the evening. We went down to Duke’s for a drink and in hope of seeing Hawaii’s view of the solar eclipse, but the sun was still too high and too strong to look at and see the small chunk cut out of it. At the table even Darren needed ID for a drink! Now that IS a great 39th birthday present! Almost as good was the free drink they gave him . Darren had two drinks but I was already feeling quite tired so I opted for water as my second drink. Then it was on to Sansei.

We had heard about Sansei’s Omakase Tasting Menu and it sounded like just our kind of thing. We also chose a sampler or “flight” of three white wines to accompany the meal. First dish was a very good bowl of miso soup. The next three dishes were served together. Edamame beans – Japanese peas served in their pods. A spicy crab sushi roll served with sweet chili sauce. And a Japanese salad with octopus and salmon and tuna sashimi. The sashimi was very good but the rest was simply OK – we certainly weren’t blown away by the food at this point. This all changed with the next three courses though. Shrimp fish cakes in crispy noodles in a ginger, lime and chilli butter sauce and coriander pesto. The most amazing and soft calamari fried with a sweet and spicy sauce, served in a giant wonton. And most breath-taking of all, tuna sashimi wrapped in spinach leaves and panko crumbs, then flash fried and served in a subtle soy wasabi butter sauce. So crunchy on the outside but so soft on the inside.

There were two more courses to follow: Japanese butterfish (I’m guessing so called because it simply melts in the mouth) in sake and sweet miso and lobster, crab and shrimp ravioli in a truffle butter sauce that was divine. I felt full but these two courses managed to be both rich and light enough to finish. At this point I think jetlag kicked in. I had to prop my eyes open with matchsticks to stay awake long enough for the bill to arrive. When we got to our room we both crashed out completely!