16 July 2007

Arrivederci!

It's our last day in Rome and we're exhausted! We've done practically all the sights, picked holes in Dan Brown's Angels and Demons, and seen Genesis for the second time in a week. I won't tell you everything we've done (I've only got 20 minutes credit left!), but here are some highlights.

The Pantheon - As is so often the case, the sights you are most indifferent about seeing are the best. This quite literally took my breath away. The shaft of light from the hole in the roof is the first thing you notice when you walk in the door, and the scale and perfection of the dome - especially considering the age of the building - is the most astounding.

The Trevi Fountain - It really is amazing. And quite bizarre that anyone would want to build a fountain quite so large!

Castel Sant'Angelo - We went here on an Angels and Demons pilgramage, but it's definitely worth a look. Hadrian's mausoleum turned Papal fortress, it's reworkings reminded me a lot of the Tower of London.

St. Peter's Basilica - it was hard work in the heat of Rome, but the climb to the top of the dome does provide the best view over the city. And the church itself is simply vast and magnificent.

Pincio - take a walk through Villa Borghese and end at Pincio, with a breathtaking southern facing view over the huge Piazza del Popolo.

Genesis - they were playing at Circo Massimo near the Forum and Colloseum. It was incredibly dusty which made breathing rather difficult, but the dust did at least diffuse the light and make the show look even better. After seeing them from so close at Twickenham, it was great to see the lightshow in all it's glory. The atmosphere was fantastic as well.

Our hotel was right near Piazza Navona, and is fantastic. Never pay full price for a hotel! There's a lovely terrace where Darren's taken some great photos from (hopefully uploaded soon, see the address on the right!)

It's been incredibly hot, but a great start to our travels. Tonight we take the sleeper train to Geneva before heading over the border into France and our next WWOOF farm.

07 July 2007

Nearly Gone!

There's just a few more days before we leave the country! It feels a bit odd because we're coming back for Christmas, but 5 months away from ol' Blighty and of course all the friends and family is still quite a long time. We're putting our photos on Picasa, which has a nifty map feature so you can properly see where we've been. How often we get to update it (much like here) who knows. The link is on the right there ---->

We managed to get a car in time for Glastonbury. It was quite an epic experience. The rain and mud might be some kind of tradition, but it makes it all very tiring and you know you'd have a better time if it was dry and sunny. We saw nearly 40 acts in all. My most memorable moments were Carrie Tree in a really vibey little tent on the Thursday, Guy Pratt, some brilliant dance acts and chilling out on Kings Meadow on one of the rare sunny moments. I'd love to go again, I'd just love it even more if it was good weather!

In other news, I am once again a proud Auntie! Lucy Dudman just couldn't wait to see me and spend a little extra time with me, so she was born over a week early last Tuesday. Mother and baby doing really well, as are father and older sister. Aww, I'm gonna miss them two!

09 June 2007

Down On The Farm

We're staying on a farm halfway up a Pennine hill right on the Lancs / Yorks border. We eventually made it on Monday night and got instantly treated to a slap up meal. Let me introduce you to the family...

The farm is owned by Ben and Penny, who are both full-time anthropologists and live in the house with their 12 year old daughter Laurie and Pickle the cat. There is currently a Kiwi WWOOFer here called Bryony, who has stayed for 3 months but is leaving on Monday. There are four goats - Cheeky the male, Misty the mum and Coco and Fudge her daughters - and three chickens.

We're living in what's affectionately known as The Piggery. It's an out-building to the main house, and as well as housing pigs it has also formerly been a grave and a bridal suite. It's slightly spooky but quite cool as well. The worst thing is the stream that runs down behind it - it can be quite a palavar to get out of your sleeping bag and go to the main house if you need the loo!

On Tuesday Bryony showed us the ropes and we set to our main project - creating a level place for a trampoline. You see, a trampoline is rather dangerous on the side of a large and pretty steep hill. So we've been digging trenches and then filling them back in as we work by a bit of trial and error. Hopefully we can get it complete before we leave.

On Wednesday I milked my first goat! Misty was very obliging, and althought I squirted more up my arm than in the bucket the first time, my attempt yesterday was a bit more successful. Bryony thinks I'm a natural, I'm not so sure (stop sniggering at the back there!) The goats are fantastic and my favourite task. They all have their own personalities, and watching them happily munch on grass is a wonderful thing. As is drinking a cup of tea made with the milk you squeezed out yourself - all very satisfying. We took them up to the top of the hill to graze on Thursday. Walking up that hill is hard work on it's own, being dragged my a goat made me realise just how unfit I really am! As well as drinking the milk Ben also makes cheese and yoghurt.

I've also done my first weeding, planting (runner beans) and pruning (cherry tomatoes). Us three WWOOFers spent most of yesterday pulling a huge amount of bracken out of the ground. It's nice to do things where you see the results so quickly and so obviously. The weather's been gorgeous, although it's been a bit hot for all this manual work. It's a fairly leisurely atmosphere though, and we always make sure we stop for a cup of tea or a good feed.

The food has been fantastic. Ben's an excellent cook. It's all been veggie, and I haven't missed eating meat at all (although we got fish and chips after we came back from a nearby town to watch the footie!) Yesterday we had a great combined effort for lunch, making a Mexican bean stew with guacamole and nachos.

The car has broken down so we missed the Marillion gig on Thursday (absolutely gutted!) Not sure if it's repairable, or what we'll do over the next few weeks. Could be a bit awkward getting to Glastonbury...

I'm physically quite exhausted, but I've been really enjoying working out in the open air. The views are fantastic, I'm starting to get a nice bit of a tan and I might even be a little less scared of spiders than I was a week ago!

OK, off to see if I can find somewhere nice for you to view my pictures from...

01 May 2007

Get It Together Girl!

OK, what's this blogging thing again? Ah yes. Well I've been distributing this address out to a lot of people lately, so I figured I'd better make an effort to post at least once before "the trip". We've got less than a month before we're kicked out of the flat, and we've got a LOT of stuff to get rid of in the meantime. So if anyone wants to buy anything (and I mean pretty much ANYTHING) please let me know! We're doing a boot fair this weekend, but our boot doesn't hold much so I'm not sure how successful that's going to be. Still it's only a fiver, not much to be lost.

We've started buying the bits and pieces we need as well. We still haven't negotiated the minefield of insurance, and I still haven't properly got my head around what to do with money but I've started doing some important shopping and we've also joined WWOOF UK - this will keep us occupied until we leave the country in July. We're planning on WWOOFing all over the world, so it'll be the perfect starting point we think.

Anyway, can't chat long. Many things to be done...

03 April 2007

This month I have...



I’ve been a bit rubbish at updating this lately haven’t I? Here’s a quick update of the last month…

L’Enclume

We drove over to Cartmel in the Lake District, stopping off in Grange Over Sands for a nose around as we couldn’t check into the room until 3pm. The room was very nice with a beautiful view of the Priory. We then had a walk around Cartmel (it’s not very big so it didn’t take long!) and I bought a necklace to go with my outfit for the evening. Back at the room we watched the first half of the football while we got changed – then Darren switched off the TV and dropped to one knee to propose to me! Of course I said yes, but it took me a while to stop shaking!

We celebrated with a glass of champagne to start our meal. It’s difficult to describe the experience of the meal itself. We went for the Underground, a meal of at least 20 courses (we actually finished with 21). Some are staple dishes to the restaurant, for example the Razor Role Reversal which has clam and chestnuts served in an eggshell and chicken served in a razorclam shell. Sometimes the staff were as puzzled as us about what was in a dish and had to check with the chef – “he’s experimenting” as one of the waiters explained to us!

There are a few dishes and elements that really stand out for me. BBQ pig with sweetcorn puree, cola jelly and deep-friend oregano was brilliant. Expearimenthol frappe was pear jelly, mint cream and coffee flavoured crushed biscuit served in a shot glass. The slow drop duck egg which had been cooked for two hours but was perfectly runny. Liquid chocolate – it looked like cake and felt like cake at first, but then dissolve to liquid. Foie gras ice cream (it takes a couple of mouthfuls to get used to that one!) All of the dishes were presented like works of art, but then that’s the difference between a great restaurant and a Michelin star restarant.

The staff were particularly wonderful. They served the meal with humour and we got the feeling that they were perfectly aware of how bizarre the idea was. They were attentive but we never felt pestered. The sommelier helped us pick an amazing bottle of red wine for the second half of our meal (we started with a white). I don’t think we’ll spend £65 on a bottle of wine very often, but you can taste the difference – the depth of flavour was incredible.

I struggled with the final few mouthfuls and just couldn’t face the coffee and chocolates (served on skewers). It was back to the room to collapse on the bed and allow my body and mind to digest everything! We also had breakfast at the restaurant, which was probably the best breakfast I’ve ever had. I was surprised I was hungry at all! We had another wonder around Cartmel, picking up some of the world’s best Sticky Toffee pudding on the way (we’ve since devoured it and it’s truly wonderful). I think I want to live in Cartmel. It’s the food capital of the world…



Marillion – Somewhere Else

I’m not sure what insanity drives us to travel to Glasgow to listen to an album that’s out in a few weeks and that I could probably download if I were that desperate to listen to it. Especially when we’d already heard over half of it. Such is the life of a Marillion fan. It was an opportunity to catch up with some friends as well, always worth a journey. The listening party was held in Arta, a lovely if expensive bar. The soundsystem wasn’t particularly good though, and the heavy bass combined with the chatter made it quite difficult to really assess or appreciate the album.

There were two tracks that we heard at the Convention that I was very much looking forward to hearing again. Most Toys is probably the most catchy song Marillion have ever produced and The Wound is dark and moody. Opening track The Other Half again appeared to me as a song of – ironically – two halves, the first being my personal favourite. Of the songs I hadn’t heard before, No Such Thing stood out the most in it’s quirkiness, and the title track definitely has potential as a grower. Overall it’s quite unusual for a Marillion album in that all the songs are relatively short and many are of a basic song structure. It’s really quite Beatle-esque. Although I couldn’t hear much of the lyric, what I heard was quite dark, both on a personal and a global level.

Afterwards I got a chance to chat to bassist Pete Trewavas (who recognised us from our exploits in Luxembourg a couple of years ago). Even he thought the bass had been too loud! He was in fine form and we had an excellent natter about the album. Unfortunately it was all too short as he had to go and mingle further. The album is out on the 9th April – I can’t wait to hear it properly!

A Lucky Weekend

Not only did I win £150 on bingo last Saturday, I also managed to nab a couple of Glastonbury tickets! This is VERY exciting! I’d never thought of going to Glasto before, but we thought we’d give it a go and after half an hour of refreshing browsers I managed to get through. Now where are my wellies...

06 March 2007

Busy busy busy...

Life is still pretty breathless! Last week we got last minute tickets to see the Kaiser Chiefs at Newcastle Academy. Unfortunately they were seated balcony tickets and I just couldn't get into the gig at all. Nevermind, maybe we'll snaffle Glastonbury tickets and see them there instead...

Before the gig we went to St Sushi - it's like Yo! but a bit cheaper and it feels less like a chain. Really excellent and pretty experimental sushi. My favourite was deep fried prawns with strawberry.

We went to the Destinations Travel Show on Sunday. It was essentially just a huge travel agents, but we grabbed quite a lot of brochures to give us some ideas. I also got a copy of Rough Guides new World Party book - I want to go to as many carnivals and festivals around the world as possible!

This weekend is L'Enclume. I'm REALLY excited about it, I don't think I've done anything this posh before!!!

05 February 2007

Colours And Sound

It’s 10pm on a Monday night. I’m lying in my bed for the first time since I left it at 4.30am the previous Thursday. Every muscle in my body aches. The hangover is just starting to subside. The throat feels and sounds like someone has been spiking my drinks with razor blades. And I’m feeling the onset of a fluey cold. All of this can only mean one thing. I’ve just been to a Marillion convention.

For the uninitiated of you, let me try to explain. Rock band Marillion have a small but incredibly devoted following. Every two years they book up a holiday camp and up to 3000 fans travel to enjoy three days of music, drinking and general jollity. And now I’ve got to try to put it into words. I’m not sure if this will be a cohesive diary, or more of a collection of chronological memories. It’s difficult to know where to start. As I lie in my bed there’s no space in my head. It’s too full of colours and sound.

Thursday morning feels like a long time ago. The alarm was set for 4am, the taxi picked us up at 5am and the flight to Amsterdam 7.10am. Unbelievably by the time we boarded, my boyfriend Darren and our friend Neil had already drunk two pints of beer! Start as you mean to go on lads...

We landed an hour later, set our watches forward to local time and then spent a further hour hiking across the vast plains of Amsterdam Schipol airport. A short train ride into the centre of the Dutch capital later and onto our hotel for tonight. The convention didn’t start until Friday, but we thought we’d get there a day early and Annett on the online forum organised an extra special rate at the extra posh Radisson for Marillion fans. We couldn’t yet check into the 5 star luxury, so we left our bags and headed out for some tourism.

We walked to Anne Frank House, somehow avoiding the trams and the thousands of bicycles that rule the streets. I visited Anne Frank House when I was 15, but I don’t think I was old enough or educated enough to really appreciate it. It is the most moving and thought provoking experience. White Russian plays in my head as I view the pictures of piles of dead bodies in the concentration camps.

I take a deep breath as I leave and we make our way to the nearby Pancake Bakery for some nourishment. Then it’s back to the Radisson where we could now check in. The hotel is amazing and the room wonderful. We relaxed for a few hours before heading out for some sushi – Darren had found out about an all-you-can-eat place. When we arrived it was packed and fully booked. This place MUST be good. We snuck in after a cancellation and had 2 hours to fill ourselves before our session ended. The fish was so amazingly fresh, it was well worth the money. Tokyo Cafe, highly recommended!

Well fed, it was on to the Tara, an Irish bar where there was a pre-arranged Marillion meet. This is where the recollections get a little hazy. Apparently we left around 2am, but I can’t really be sure...

Five hours later and we’re awake again. Breakfast was included, so we wanted to take full advantage before heading back to the airport to meet my sister Vicky from her flight. After a few more hours of hanging around and meeting up with old friends, we could hop onto our coach to Center Parcs in Port Zelande. This was where the convention was to be held, and it was a long, boring, tiring two hour trip west, especially after the previous night.

The check-in queue was ridiculous so we visited the shop to get some supplies. When we did check in I couldn’t wait to get rid of the case I’d been dragging behind me for the last two days! The cottage was absolutely lovely, despite a rather treacherous looking spiral staircase up to the bedrooms! Our room-mate Paul arrived just after us, and he and Darren headed back out for further supplies (largely of the alcoholic variety). In his infinite wisdom, Darren insisted we bring a PS2 including Guitar Hero controllers and Singstar microphones for entertainment. All the extra lugging around was worth it, and we spent the rest of the afternoon on a Singstar marathon. Vicky and I on vocals, Darren and Paul performing to the camera. It was a hilarious, “you had to be there” moment.

Luckily someone remembered that we were actually in the Netherlands to see Marillion so at 9pm we ventured to the tent. After obtaining some beer tokens we made our way to guitarist Steve Rothery’s side of the stage. The band opened with five, as yet unheard songs from the forthcoming album, Somewhere Else. On first listen my personal favourites were Most Toys (fantastic single material) and The Wound (think Massive Attack or Portishead with more of a rock edge).

Then onto the main feature. At every convention, Marillion perform one of their albums in its entirety, and this year’s choice was This Strange Engine. I love every song on this album, so I was pretty excited. Keyboard player Mark Kelly is the shining star – the album is littered with fantastic keyboard solos. Rothery was also in excellent form, deservedly given an extended and rapturous applause for his solo in the song This Strange Engine. However, Hope For the Future was always going to be the highlight. Much maligned by most fans, the chorus is a very cheesy attempt at samba, but there are some great moments in the song. Armed with maracas, we came, we partied, we laughed out loud. The reception was huge – I think the band gained a lot of respect for performing something so unpopular, although I think the applause was partly out of relief that it was over!

The gig closed with a reprise of two of the new songs, and the catchy chorus to Most Toys was left to reverberate around everyone’s heads. It was on to the Rock Disco at the Adventure Factory. The bar system was more than a little chaotic – particularly frustrating when all you want is a glass of water. The disco itself was a bit hit and miss, although Freebird provided us with one of the songs of the weekend. We never did learn more than the first four lines...

More Guitar Hero and Singstar back at the cottage, before collapsing into bed at some unknown time. The main thing on the agenda on the Saturday was the pub quiz, so after breakfast it was back to the Adventure Factory. We were more than happy with our #5 placing, although we could have done much better if it wasn’t for a poorly played joker and some stupid errors. Boos echoed around the room when the ubiquitous Cakey Boys were announced as winners – they beat everyone the convention before and once more won the right to battle it out on stage against the band.

We plumped for Italian for dinner, although the service was poor the food wasn’t bad. We were then invited to a gathering of rugby fans to watch England thrash Scotland in the 6 nations. I’m not generally a rugby person, but I’m always happy to watch the Auld Enemy get beaten! After a change of clothes it was on to the second gig of the weekend, Rareties and Covers. In my opinion it wasn’t a brilliant setlist or show, but there were moments of genius. Built In Bastard Radar – a song only beaten by Hope For the Future in most least liked Marillion song lists – was excellent, as was the oft forgotten These Chains. A friend of mine Liz provided one of the best surprises by stepping up to sing an excellent version of Sympathy. But surely the most brilliant moment was Marillion does Britney. A cover of Toxic showed that this band don’t take themselves as seriously as many think. A point further made by lead singer Steve Hogarth donning a dress and fishnets to perform Abba’s Money Money Money, and providing some excellent yodelling for the finale of Hocus Pocus by Focus.
The party of the night was in cottage 268 where a couple of our good friends from Marillion tribute band Forgotten Sons were staying. They had also brought proper guitars. A long, LONG singing session ensued, mostly of Marillion songs old and new. There was a weird rotating audience thing happening though, and when Kayleigh and Easter were being requested for the third time, we decided it was time to leave. Mind you, it was about 4am at this point...

We had to set alarms for Sunday. I agreed to set up a pool competition and was due in the Adventure Factory at 11am. 11am didn’t seem that early when I planned it. It was obviously too early for some of the people who had entered because we were running a bit short on players! I reluctantly put my hat in the ring to make up a knockout of 8 people, and just as I started my match Graeme came running in with apologies galore. I wasn’t really up for humiliating myself, so with everyone’s permission we agreed he could take my place. It was a hard fought competition with only two players not winning a frame and many frames coming down to a black ball fight. Darren v Graeme was the final, and after many misses Graeme snatched victory. It was great fun, but maybe next time I’ll make it a more reasonable time!

Next on the agenda was the quiz final. More boos were directed at the Cakey Boys who took it all in their stride. It was excellently compered by Andy and Jim from the Marillion fan club Web UK, and the competition was even closer than the pool! The band got their revenge on the Cakeys and beat them on a tie-break. The band also did a Q&A session – I’m sure they get less and less informative as the years go on, but they’re always very funny to watch.

We decided to eat at Sharky’s that evening, and what a fantastic choice it was. Vicky and I both ordered steak, and it was the biggest, juiciest, best cooked steak I’ve had for a long time. It absolutely stuffed me though, and back at the cottage I barely felt like I could move. The previous evening’s singing had taken its toll on my throat and I wasn’t sure how much I was going to enjoy that night’s show. Darren was invited out to take on one of our pool no-shows, our good friend Brian but I just wanted to chill out for a couple of hours. Vicky had a game of Singstar – she’s a bit too good at that for my liking!

Darren came back with lots of excuses as to why he had been soundly beaten by Brian and we cracked open a bottle of wine before heading off to the final show. This seemed to lubricate both my throat and my spirits, and I was ready for the final push. We only just made it to the tent before the gig started, so decided to dance around at the back. Tonight’s setlist was a compilation of the band’s favourite Marillion songs, kind of a best of. Despite the fact that the songs were largely predictable and there were probably only a couple of I would have chosen, it was incredibly enjoyable. My highlights were You’re Gone (how can you not love that bassline?), Between You And Me (now known as “The Jumping Song”) and The Space. Halfway through King I turned around to see Darren and Paul run out the back, Darren holding his face. When I saw him bent over the barrier outside, I thought the alcohol had got the better of him, but it turned out he’d gone down, Paul had gone up and nose made contact with back-of-head. Nothing appeared to be broken though, and he patched himself up and was back for the end of the song!

The encore and finale of the weekend was a reprise of Hocus Pocus. Exhausted but elated, it was off to the Adventure Factory for the Farewell Party. Another hit and miss rock disco, but we managed to get quite a moshpit going when Rage Against The Machine came on! Vicky went back to the chalet early – I think pregnancy and sobriety were starting to catch her up. We decided to locate the infamous Norwegians party and the most infamous of them all, Andreas. We met lots of new friends, but the mood was a little sombre as we all knew the weekend was coming to a close. At 4am we remembered that we had to be up at a decent hour of the morning to catch our coach back, so off to bed we went.

I don’t think I slept too well despite my red wine haze, and the next morning I felt decidedly off colour. The fresh winter air outside revived me a little, and I was glad I woke myself early to try to sober up and pack. Certainly the prospect of another two hours on a coach was not appealing. The Cakey Boys were on our coach – despite being anoraks of the highest order, they are very funny blokes and made the journey go a little quicker. We arrived at Schipol at midday, and got a pancake for lunch. Mine and Darren’s flight wasn’t until 8pm, so we put our bags into lockers, said a final farewell to Vicky (who had an earlier flight) and decided to spend a little more time in Amsterdam.

We eventually negotiated our way onto a tram to Museumplein. You can never be bored in Amsterdam. There are museum’s on every street and on every subject. We walked past a Diamond Museum – it was free so we figured we had nothing to lose but an hour. It was actually more of a large shop, and oddly enough there was the “real” museum at the end which cost €6 to enter. Hmmm. We looked at going in the Van Gogh museum, but €10 for the hour we had left was a bit steep, so we got a tram back towards the station, alighting at Dam Square. We got some frites mayo but still had some time to kill. Walking up Damrak we passed the Sex Museum. It was only €3, so with little else to occupy us and our minds not entirely with it, we went in. I’m not sure what I expected, but seeing 100 year old pornography was very strange, especially given my state of mind at the time.

We emerged probably slightly more dazed than when we entered, and embarked on the long journey home. A needlessly prolonged check-in, a McDonalds, a dozy flight and cab ride later, and here I am once more. Aching in body, tired in mind and lighter in pocker. Was it worth it? You bet!

23 January 2007

Busy Diary!!!

Wow, my "Forthcoming Dates" are filling up aren't they?! I've barely got a quiet weekend until May, and then we move out! There are a lot of Preston matches on there because that's where Darren is from, so we try to get to as many matches as possible. Especially as they're doing well at the moment. We saw them playing Stoke at Deepdale last weekend - they conceded two goals in 7 minutes and then won it 3-2. It was a very exciting match (and believe me, I don't always come away from Deepdale thinking that!) So we try to coincide visiting his family with home matches, and squeeze in the odd away match too (I prefer being an away supporter, it's much more fun!)

We are going to L'Enclume for our anniversary. We were planning to go to the Fat Duck in Bray but - owing to it's many Michelin stars, rating as the world's best restaurant and owner Heston Blumenthal's current high profile - we couldn't get a booking. So after a bit of searching we found L'Enclume. We're staying there as well. We'll probably go for The Underground - a minimum of 20 courses in a meal that can last over 5 hours. We both love good food, and this is supposed to be an experience unlike any other.

In other news, today I got my first jabs before the big trip. I'm such a wimp. I haven't had an injection for 13 years and despite having three tattoos I was petrified. When it came down to it neither of them hurt (combined hepatitis A and typhoid in one arm, combined diptheria, tetanus and polio on the other). But a mixture of adrenaline, relief and euphoria after getting over my fear made me go doolally and I passed out. Three times. How pathetic am I?!!

An hour later I managed to feel strong enough to leave the surgery. I decided it probably wasn't worth going to work for the rest of the day. My arms have felt really weak all day - that's now subsiding but my shoulders feel like I've done 3 hours of yoga practice! Now I'm all protected against 5 nasty diseases. In a couple of weeks I go back for yellow fever, then a hep A booster in 6 months and I should be all good to go. Exciting innit?!!