As Time Goes By

I was quite sad to leave Marrakech, even though we are returning in a few days. Our next destination was Casablanca by train. Not somewhere I particularly felt the need to visit but Darren wanted to on a whim about the film, and then we heard that it has the world's third biggest mosque (after Mecca and Medina) – the only active mosque in Morocco that non-Muslims can enter.
After checking into our hotel (basic, but fine for one night) we went out for a wander. Not that there's anything to see. Casablanca is the biggest city in Morocco, the sixth biggest city in Africa and essentially nothing more than a business centre. We walked around the big expensive hotels and Darren got his very dusty shoes polished, but otherwise there was nothing of note. Hassan II Mosque is also the tallest religious building in the world, and we headed towards it to get a closer look. We then saw the other side of Casablanca – derelict and half-demolished houses, the very poor almost living in a shanty town under the shadow of a mosque which cost $750 million to build. We couldn't go in at that point as visitor can only enter on set guided tours so we'd wait for that until the following morning. But we got a wonderful view of it as the sun set and could hear the evening prayers take place from outside the open door.
Walking back to our hotel wondering where to eat, all of Darren's wishes came true. There it was – Rick's Cafe. I thought it would probably be a bit of a dingy, touristy dive, but we thought we'd bear it in mind and maybe pop in for a drink later. Making use of our hotel's free internet we found out it was actually quite a posh (but not too expensive) restaurant, a labour of love by an enterprising American woman who was amazed that no-one had done it before. I could protest no longer and it became our destination for dinner. And it was an excellent choice. The staff were friendly, the food delicious, the decor very tasteful and there was a pianist playing all the old standards, including of course As Time Goes By.
The next morning we arose early enough to catch the 9am tour of the mosque. It was completed in 1993 after 6 years of round the clock work. It holds 20,000 worshippers, has an openable roof, and as well as the prayer hall you can view the ablution chamber and the hassans (public baths). It is grand, elaborate, immense and quite an amazing feat of architecture. It is rare to see such a modern religious building and it's ingenious to see how modern technology has been fused with traditional crafts (especially when they show you how they've hidden the hundreds of speakers!). Although the mosque is used daily, it is essentially a showpiece – the public baths have never been used and are just for demonstration. And as beautiful as it all was, this gave me a sense of emotional detachment which was quite strange.
We then returned to our hotel to check out and catch the train to Fes, the next destination on our Moroccan adventure...

Rock The Casbah

Over four days in Marrakech I think we managed to take in more or less all of the sights. Our first venture into Place Jemaa el Fna was pretty scary stuff. It was quite late so all the entertainers were out in force. Everywhere you go is like trying to run the gauntlet, with people trying to persuade you to take their picture or eat their food. Our guidebook recommended Hassan's with "the best merguez sausages" but it was packed, largely with locals. We eventually planted ourselves at one stall and ate well for 90 dirham (DH) – about £6 for the two of us. However, I still hadn't managed to accumulate much change for the entertainers and we had become a bit weary of being hassled and returned to the riad.
On Wednesday we visited the Musee de Marrakech, the Madrassa Ben Youssef and Koubba el Baroudyn. The Koubba was part of the Ben Youssef mosque which was used for ablutions, but was buried for hundreds of years before being re-discovered in 1947. It was the first piece of Arab architecture that we had really looked at and a great starting point – although not elaborate it is the only surviving structure from the Almoravide period in Marrakech and it's design and decoration have been replicated ever since the 11^th century. From there we crossed the track to the Madrassa of the Ben Youssef mosque. Non-Muslims aren't allowed in all but one mosque in Morocco, but madrassas (where religious students live) are often opened up to allow tourists to view. It was beautifully decorated and I've been most stunned by the deep stucco work on many of the buildings. The open courtyard reminded me a little of the monastery at Montserrat, and you can explore the rooms to see the difference between the bad ones (little boxes with no windows) to the best (much bigger with views over the courtyard). The best thing about looking out of these windows was that it gave a closer look at that intricate stucco work.
Next on our ticket was the Musee de Marrakesh. More of an art gallery than a museum, the main piece on view is the building. Like most buildings in the city there is an open courtyard, although this one had a tented roof which gave the roof a strange, yellowish glow. There were quite a few chairs and benches around so apart from anything it was a lovely place to sit and relax and listen to the sound of the water trickling over the fountains. The art displayed was vibrant and wonderful, reminding me that I'd love to find a nice piece from a souk vendor to take home!
We decided to take a break from the Moroccan cuisine and visit an Italian restaurant recommended by the guidebook. It was early so when we arrived we were the only diners, but Casanova was a very nice restaurant with good food (it's great when you order something you've had before and are served with an excellent version of it). Our waiter was intriguing and determined to practice as much English as possible on us, regaling us with tales of how he hated his job, hated the Spanish and was really a very creative and sensitive soul. His accent was heavy and we often lost track of his musings - as sweet as he was we were pleased when more customers came in to take his attention!
For our final day in Marrakesh we ventured to the south of the city – the Kasbah and the Palaces. The first place we wanted to see was the Saadian Tombs. 66 members of the Saadian dynasty (16^th-17^th century) are buried here, and the most intriguing thing (for us Westerners at least) is that the graves are more or less unmarked. Rectangles of mosaic tiles differentiate one grave from another, and even those housed under ornate roofs are relatively plain. Slightly disappointed we walked to El Badi, a Saadian palace. After the Saadian dynasty fell, Sultan Moulay Ismail stole all the marble that decorated it for his palace in Meknes, so essentially it is nothing more than a ruin that is now owned by the many storks who build their nests on top of the walls. But it is huge! There are a few walls along with sunken gardens, ex-fountains and foundations with good signs explaining how the building may have looked, and you can envisage just how grand the parties there would have been. You can also walk around some of the unearthed outbuildings – the ground was very uneven and you would never be allowed so much freedom on a ruin in Rome!
On our way back we decided we had to eat where the locals at. It was relatively early but Hassan's stall at Jemma el Fna was already doing the business. There was no fussing about with menus, just sit down and eat what's put in front of you. The merguez were indeed very good, as was the slightly random (not sure I want to know what was in it) meat stew and with bread and tea it was no more than 40 DH for both of us! Just shows that the locals (and the guidebooks) do know what they're talking about sometimes!

Where The Streets Have No Name

Today we got lost. After two days in a city that we know quite well, we are in what feels like a completely different world. The cacophony of sights, sounds and smells makes Marrakech everything I expected and I’ll try to put it into words. But firstly, I’m getting ahead of myself...
We had a wonderful meal on my birthday but couldn’t stay up too late as we had to pack and leave early to catch our flight. Our hostel was actually just north of Barcelona in Badalona, but still accessible by metro. It was very nice and clean, fine for a couple of nights. While in Barcelona we thought we’d try to see a something we hadn’t visited before – Montjuic. When we arrived on the funicular we found that the cable car to the top was closed for repairs, so instead we walked to the Olympic Stadium and museum. The stadium itself isn’t that impressive, although we were quite intrigued that it didn’t look anything like other ultra-modern recently built stadia. The museum was very interesting, chronicling the history of sport in general as well as the ancient and modern Olympic Games. We then headed back into Barcelona centre to book a few more future travel plans and buy a Morocco guidebook. We thought about eating in a restaurant but Barcelona on a Saturday night is a VERY busy place and we decided to get a takeaway pizza and rest in our hotel room instead.

Our flight left Girona airport at 4pm. As with all Ryanair flights it wasn’t the most pleasant experience but it was clear enough during most of the journey for us to have a good view. As we approached Marrakech we took in the sight of desert and neatly kept plantations, then the red city came into view. For the first time in my life I was out of Europe – and had to queue up to get my passport stamped. We had arranged a lift with our riad, and it’s possibly the best £10 we’ve spent as there is no public transport from the airport and Marrakech is a mish-mash of unlabelled streets. We’ve not yet found a comprehensive map and even if we did I feel it would be fairly useless!

Having visited quite a few European cities in the past, the main thing that has struck both of us is just how different it really is. It really does match up to your expectations in so many ways. The smells are the most incredible – aromas of different foods and spices, the charcoal that much of the food is cooked upon mingling with occasional whiffs of petrol or sewerage. The local music predominates, with a mix of different languages – Arabic, French and sometimes even English – and the calls to prayer booming out over loudspeakers five times a day. Even in cloudy February the heat is intense when the sun comes out. There are few cars inside the city walls but there are countless motorbikes, mopeds and bicycles with apparently no road rules.

We are staying in Riad Jomana and our welcome couldn’t have been warmer. The riad is in a small alleyway and doesn’t look like much from the outside, but inside is beautiful, comfortable and very relaxing. It only has four rooms so the staff are always on hand and willing to bring us more delicious mint tea. There is a roof terrace where we had our breakfast this morning and an internal courtyard from where I’m writing this. We spent our first evening lounging here as we were a bit scared to tackle Marrakech in the dark!

So yesterday morning we braved the outside world. We found our way to the famous Place Jemaa el Fna (Place of the Dead) fairly easily and entered the souks. Our intention was to get lost - the owner of our riad said it was the only way to experience Marrakech and it wasn’t difficult. It’s almost impossible to orientate yourself as few streets are signposted and directions are few and far between. Everything is so unbelievably cheap that it’s difficult not to buy a bag full (and of course a new bag to put it all in). When you enter a shop you have to intend to buy something, and as Darren wanted to add to his ingredients collection back home we did eventually succumb to a spice stall. We were treated to some tea and got to smell lots of wonderful spice combinations as well as herbal remedies and essential oils. We left with plenty of goods, some freebies and the knowledge that we’d had a good, traditional Moroccan tourist experience!

After a couple of hours of having no idea where we were, going in and out of the souks by various entrances, walking around in circles and being hassled by EVERYONE (fun for a while, eventually tiresome) we found our way back to the “big square” as all the local children trying to earn a few dirham from lost tourists describe it. We had lunch in a cafe overlooking the square as people started to set up for the evening, but decided to have a fine meal in the riad instead.

It really is a place of contrasts, and you need the wonderfully relaxing side – either in the riad, the gardens outside the city or even in a cafe - to balance the frenetic madness that takes over in the streets and the souks. We have spent today relaxing in the Jardin Majorelle botanic gardens and Cyber Park - a big park with Wi-Fi and computers where it seems most of the local youth hangs out. So tonight we feel relaxed and ready to take on the Place Jemaa el Fna with it's many entertainers and street food sellers.

Celebration

After four weeks of living in relatively basic circumstances, it’s nice to check into a hotel. And our first priority in Hotel Taburiente in Santa Cruz de Tenerife was to have a good, hot, powerful shower. We then headed out for a Canarian meal and to sample a little of the Carnaval. We had drinks in a couple of bars and danced for a while amongst the crowd in front of the stage, but headed back at about 11.30pm. Well, we had been up VERY early that morning and wanted to conserve some energy for the next day, even though it seemed to be just at the point when the party was starting!

After breakfast on Tuesday, we took to the streets for a stroll to get a feel for Santa Cruz and try to find out where to watch the afternoon’s procession which started at 4pm. It travels a long way along the coastal road and must have left its starting point a lot earlier than the scheduled time! After 3 hours we felt that there was only so much procession you can watch so we headed back to the hotel to change for the evening and watch the rest on television. Our plan was to head out for the firework display at 9pm, but at 8.30pm we heard a few bangs – this carnival obviously doesn’t run very precisely to schedule! Still we headed out for some food and to have another boogie in the street. It seemed a lot quieter than the night before though, and we got a sense that we’d missed the main party.
On Wednesday we took the tram to the Museo de la Ciencia y el Cosmos. It had lots of interactive experiments, and was much like the interactive section of London’s Science Museum but with far fewer kids running around! We then took the tram back into Santa Cruz to have a look at the magnificent Auditorio. Clearly influenced by Sydney Opera House, it gleams in the sun looking like a wave from the Atlantic Ocean. After our evening meal we joined the crowds lining the street for the Burial of the Sardine. Another key event in Santa Cruz’s Carnaval celebrations, it was a short but rowdy group of many men (and even a few women) dressed as widows (although how many people would attend a funeral in this get up I’ve no idea!) The procession hadn’t got far although it was already 11pm, and we decided to head back to the hotel instead of follow it. At about 3am we were woken by some huge bangs – the “mourners” had clearly reached the sardine and the fireworks sounded much more impressive than the previous evening.
I’ve had a nice relaxing birthday today. We first took the tram to La Laguna, the old town of the north of Tenerife. There we visited the Museo de Historia de Tenerife which is based in one of the many beautiful old buildings in the town. We then had a nice wander around – you can see very clearly where the old town starts – and headed back to Santa Cruz. Our hotel sits opposite the Parque Garcia Sanabria which we’ve walked through a few times but I wanted to walk the full spiral of the footpath that runs to the centre. There are many sculptures and exotic plants, including the banyul trees that were so inspirational to Gaudi when he designed La Sagrada Familia. Most importantly we could sit out in the sunshine in t-shirts, something I’ve never done on my birthday before!
Tonight we’re having a meal in the hotel restaurant – the menu has been taunting us every time we use the lift! Tomorrow we leave early for our flight to Barcelona before flying to Marrakesh on Sunday. Finally, thank you all for the birthday messages. It’s been strange not having any presents or cards to open, but I knowing that people remembered is much more important!

Stranded

We had a bit of adventure in our last week in La Gomera. Darren’s laptop caught a virus while we were in Valle Gran Rey and eventually the entire system seized up. All Darren needed was a Windows Vista disc to repare the damage, but La Gomera is not a particularly large or advanced place – everyone is quite happy with XP it appears. Peter and Anna pulled out all the stops to try to find a copy and found someone who could download it for us. When we went back to San Sebastian on Thursday it still had 3-4 days left to download. Not much use when we only had a couple more days on the island ourselves. The last ditch was to plead if we could borrow a copy from one of the many computer shops in San Sebastian, a plea which was reluctantly accepted. We agreed to meet Peter in a bar as he had a little shopping to do, and after 10 minutes we headed off to the bar with a slightly more (if not fully) functioning laptop.

An hour later we wondered where Peter had got to. Surely he hadn’t forgotton about us? Darren went to check if the car was still there and it had gone! In a panic we headed to a phonebox to call Anna who said Peter had called her wondering where we were as well. Back to the bar where we waited another hour, but still no lift. Another call to El Cedro and Peter had just got home – he’d searched everywhere for us and must have just come passed the bar where we were waiting when we were making our phonecall!

So we were stranded. It was too late to eat, but we managed to get a bed in a hotel for the night. Santa Cruz de Tenerife were selecting their Carnaval Queen on a local TV channel, so this gave us a taster for next week. The next morning we found that the first bus back to the centre of the island was at 11am, so we allowed ourselves a leisurely walk around the town, got some breakfast and sent some postcards. The bus journey was fantastic. It is 15km as the crow flies from San Sebastian in the east to Valle Gran Rey on the west coast, but the road winds for 50km up towards the peak of Garajonay. San Sebastian is a very pretty little town to look down on. An hour later we alighted at Parajitos and braced ourselves for the 7km walk back. It was more or less all downhill and meant we had another chance to take in some more breathtaking views. This was actually a much more picturesque walk than the one we had taken to the top before, and we could see Gran Canaria from some viewpoints as well as some jaw-dropping ravines.

We got back at 2pm, freshened up and headed to work, ever so slightly late. We felt we ought to put in a few hours (otherwise we’d be working all day Saturday!) I was so tired and upset the night before, I found it quite unbelievable that such an amazing day could have come from our little misunderstanding.
Peter and Anna have been excellent hosts. They are both fantastic cooks (which always goes down well with us) and we’ve been treated to many German specialities. There’s only so much seclusion that we can take though and we have a couple of weeks “on holiday” in cities to balance all this peace and quiet we’ve had, starting with Carnaval today in Santa Cruz de Tenerife!

This Ole House

At last I’ve got a chance to give you more details of our current location! We’re on La Gomera in the Canary Islands. Our accommodation is just inside Garajonay National Park which covers a large percentage of the island. To get to the house you have to walk 15 minutes uphill on a public footpath, some of it very steep and quite precarious. That I managed to hike up with my backpack is nothing short of a miracle! The old stone house is pretty basic but it’s nice to be somewhere of our own. It can be very cold at night – we had a petrol stove to keep us from freezing but on Friday (18th) we fixed the wood burner. It was quite exciting seeing the first smoke coming out of the chimney! We’re doing good rustic things like collecting firewood (no shortage when you’re in a forest) and very clean water from a stream at the bottom of the footpath. We’ve also been making excellent use of the radio I got for Christmas and listening to the World Service and a few English language stations from Tenerife.

The farm is 30 minutes walk downhill from our house (which means a 30 minutes uphill struggle home). Our hosts are Peter and Anna, a German couple who have been here for about 10 years I think, and their two daughters, Melanie (16, fostered) and Lea (11). Anna works part-time at a tropical fruit garden on the island. There are two very large dogs, Tronky and Gringo. Gringo is a Rottweiler / Alsatian cross and despite his size and breeding is a real baby with a very expressive face. There are also chickens, goats, cats, guinea pigs, terrapins and possibly others that we haven’t been introduced to. Our hosts are very nice, very generous and full of good humour.

As well as the animals Peter is trying to grow lots of different fruits on his land – he estimates he currently has over 70 varieties and is aiming for over 100 in the next year. He also tries to be as self-sufficient in vegetables as possible, growing many things that the locals wouldn´t think possible. The work has been fairly standard – weeding, digging land, clearing brambles, pruning apple trees. We start at 9am and work through until 3pm with a tea break somewhere in the middle. Then Peter or Anna cook our main meal for the day before we return to our digs.

On Saturday (19th) we climbed to the top of the island. The peak of Garajonay is just under 1500m above sea level which meant an ascent for us of over 600m. The main footpath runs the other side of the stream to our house but the house is too surrounded by trees for us to see any more than the occasional flash of pink from the other side! It was a very well maintained footpath, a lot of which was crafted into steps. 5.9km of steps is a lot of steps! It took us 2½ hours there and 2 hours back and surprisingly we didn’t even ache the next day. From the top we got a good view over the sea to Tenerife and could just make out the top of La Palma. There was also some information about the original inhabitants of La Gomera, including a reconstruction of a sacrificial altar which was found at the site.

We are 7km from the nearest bus stop so going anywhere is pretty difficult. Today, for example, we have taken a lift from Anna to Valle Gran Rey but we have spent most of the day arranging future travels as we have no internet access at or near the farm. This morning we visited the tropical fruit garden that Anna works at which was fantastic. You have to take a guided tour, and as well as explaining about the plants there were also lots of tasters. It is all organic and I would definitely recommend it to anyone who might hop over on a day trip from Tenerife.

Head In The Clouds

This will be a short blog as we have to catch our lift back to our nw place in a few minutes. And isolated doesn't even come close! The farm is in a village of 3 houses called El Cedro on La Gomera in the Canary Islands. We are living in a small stone house a further 30 minutes walk away, where the nearest house is uninhabited and we are right on the border of the National Park. We have no internet access, very intermittant mobile phone signal and no neighbours! The farm is 800m above sea level and consequently has been shrouded in cloud for the last couple of days, but the sun has broken through today. The volcanic soil is bright red and vegetation a lush technicolor of pinks, oranges and the most amazing green you could imagine.

I think I'm going to enjoy the seclusion for a while. I've got a room where I can get back to my yoga and we have a little kitchen to do our own breakfast and evening meal. Hopefully I'll get back online in the next month to update you all!

Take Me Home

Well the Christmas period is more or less over and I've at last got a chance to catch up on the last few weeks. This is where I really wish I'd done this earlier as I won't remember anywhere near as much as I should, but never mind. It'll make for a shorter blog I suppose.

Our journey out of Spain was a little fraught to say the least. We got up early to catch the bus to Marbella on Saturday 8th of December only to find that the bus wasn't going to come as it had been a national holiday two days previously. Our host Christina very kindly gave us a lift to Marbella so we could catch our connection to Granada which was running and we caught without too many problems. As we headed further north and further up the fog grew thick and the temperature dropped considerably. We had the afternoon in Granada so after checking into our hostel we had a wander around the city. The weather made it a little grim and our map not particularly good but eventually we found one of the viewpoints indicated on the map. The fog had lifted a little so we had an excellent view of the Alhambra (we're saving the visit there for another time) and the snow capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada. There was a small market and a couple of restaurants where we ate - the food was good and not overpriced considering it was in an incredibly busy tourist spot.

We had an early night as we had an early flight the next morning. When deciding how to get to Paris, we had two options. Either we could fly early from Granada or from Seville in the afternoon. Even taking into account the hostel and the taxi the cost was more or less the same, so we thought we'd take the opportunity for a few extra hours in Paris. We caught a taxi without too many problems, but when we got to the airport it was fogbound. There was a little confusion as to whether the flight would go or not - at one point it was 90% yes, but the 10% won out and our incoming plane was diverted to Malaga and our flight cancelled. We were given the choice of flying the next morning or (you've guessed it) the Seville flight that afternoon. The most annoying thing being that by the time our coach left the fog had cleared and planes were once again taking off and landing. Too late for us.

So we flew from Seville and had to race to our hotel, change quickly and hotfoot it to La Locomotive. We met up with friends Michael and Siobhan before we went to watch Fish. Last time I saw Fish he was not absolutely awful. I said at the time that I would never go and see him again, much less make a big effort. So here I was having travel a damn long way to see him. And it was a good thing I did because he was excellent. The venue was a bit odd, but we managed to get a spot on the stairs with a good view (the main area was packed). He performed some songs from his new album which we hadn't yet heard but sounded very good along with some of his older material and songs from his last album with Marillion, Clutching At Straws. A fantastic gig by a man who is definitely back on form.

Another day, another journey. This time, a coach to Amsterdam. Not a bad journey and a bargain at €39 return. The only headache was realising that the coach station was a lot further out from the centre of Amsterdam than we had realised. Still, we could get a train and a tram to virtually outside our hotel which was in a great position, just 2 minutes walk from the venue that Marillion would be playing. On the Monday however, we had the evening free so we went to one of our favourite restaurants in the world (so far). The Tokyo Cafe is a Japanese and sushi restaurant that does an excellent all-you-can-eat deal. We were lucky enough to get in on our last visit to Amsterdam and managed to book this time. The best thing about it is you can try lots of things you wouldn't normally try. After we met up with Neil who had also come to Amsterdam for the gigs.

On the Tuesday we did some touristy things, including the excellent Torture Museum (not to be confused with the Amsterdam Dungeon) and the Theatre Museum. We also took a brief trip to see Ajax's Amsterdam ArenA - we might have to have a look inside some time because from the outside it looks like a road runs right over the pitch!

So that night was the first of three Marillion gigs. Somehow, this band just get better and better live. We stood on bassist Pete Trewavas' side of the stage which is normally the most fun (as well as the easiest to get nearer the front) and certainly had an excellent time. Afterwards I caught a plectrum (properly caught it, none of that scrabbling about on the floor) which always wraps a good gig up nicely!

The next day (we're on Wednesday in case you're not keeping up) we hit Museumplein. First up was the Rijksmuseum - not my personal choice but I really enjoyed it. I actually found myself appreciating still life painting - you can see so much more detail when you see it for real. The museum also provided an excellent history of the Netherlands through the art.

Next up was a museum that we had seen in one of the tourist booklets at the hotel. The House of Bols is brand new and attached to a bartending school. For €10 you get to discover a little about the company who produces a most extensive range of cocktail ingredients. There are interactive portions which explore taste and smell and a flair booth where you practise your own bottle throwing techniques. Best of all, at the end you can choose a cocktail to try which is freshly made for you (it's somewhere for the students to train obviously!) AND we had two additional shots each of different flavoured Bols. The Green Banana was particularly nice. At the end the receptionist commented that we'd been in there a long time - clearly a lot of people pay their €10 and head straight for the bar! We staggered back to our hotel to change before heading out for the next gig. We stood in the same place (boring I know, but Pete is a legend!) Another great gig with a couple of changes to the setlist and an amazing atmosphere.

It was another early morning start to catch the bus back to Paris. We got there in plenty of time to meet my sister Vicky at Gare Du Nord. It was fantastic to see her after so long - a couple of days in Paris was my Christmas present to her. We had another quick journey on the Metro to our hotel, to change and to head out for the gig, although we did have time for a crepe before the show. Again the atmosphere for the gig was electric - the band clearly love playing in Paris and I could see why. It's always fun to see the last night of a tour as the band let go a bit more. I wanted to hang around and see if the band would come out and socialise but Darren had a ridiculously early start so we retired to our hotel.

Vicky and I then had one day to "do" Paris. First stop had to be the Eiffel Tower. We got off at Champ de Mars stop and when came out of the station we couldn't see the famous tower anywhere! We walked in what I thought was the general direction and suddenly, behind a building, there it was. It's head was shrouded in cloud but it looked spectacular still. We opted (Vicky's decision) to take the stairs to the second level as it was much cheaper and we didn't have to queue. This was quite high enough for Vicky and we decided that it wasn't worth the extra time, money and queuing to go to the top, especially as the weather hadn't improved much.

For lunch I had to take Vicky to one of my favourite places in the world - Angelina. Angelina is a salon de thé on Rue de Rivoli near the Louvré. It looks quite small from the outside but opens up like the Tardis,managing to be opulent and personal at the same time. The croque monsieur and madame are built like doorstops and the pastries are beautiful, but it was the African style hot chocolate that we'd come for. At €6.50 it isn't cheap, but it is like pure melted chocolate and comes with a pot of whipped cream and a much needed glass of water to wash it down with. Of all my travel tips, this has to be number one!

We then decided to go somewhere I actually hadn't been to on my previous trips to Paris - Pere Lachaise cemetery. Although it was still cold it was pleasant enough to walk around. As well as the large number of famous graves there were lots of very ornate resting places. There were two people we did want to visit however - Jim Morrison and Oscar Wilde. Morrison's was the first we found, a relatively small grave festooned with flowers left by his fans. Oscar was a little trickier to find. We think there were maps but we weren't sure where people had got them from so we navigated by to occasional maps by the entrances. Eventually we found it, elaborate and unusually designed and covered with lipstick kisses.

I insisted that Vicky saw the Notre Dame Cathedral. I'm not sure how impressed she was (especially with me getting lost on the tiny island it sit on) but I love it. Plus it was somewhere we could go indoors for a while to warm up! We then headed for the Louvre - cheaper on a Wednesday or Friday evening. Like the still life in Amsterdam I think the Mona Lisa looks amazing when you see it for real, but Vicky just didn't get it. Philistine!

We traipsed around the Louvre for a few hours, and when we got bored headed for the next sight - the Arc de Triomphe. The Christmas lights on the trees all the way down the Champs Elysée were absolutely breathtaking. We were both pretty hungry again by now, but eating in Paris is really tricky. Everywhere is either too touristy, too expensive (or both) or impossible to find. We walked down the Champs Elysée and took the plunge at a hopeful looking restaurant. It actually turned out to be a good choice. In particular I must mention our very friendly waiter, not something Paris is renowned for!

The we rounded off our day where we began - the Eiffel Tower. This time we approached from the Ecole Militaire at the opposite end of the Champs du Mars. We managed to plan it so we only had a few minutes to wait for the 10pm show - the Eiffel Tower glitters for 10 minutes on the hour every night. It was a special moment to spend with a special person.

We could do no more. Back to the hotel to catch up a bit more on our time apart and watch Sex & The City in French. The next morning we took the Eurostar out of Paris - after 5 months away I was back home.